Tried & Tested: Tees

If anything is a gateway into finding/searching for MIUSA basics, it's finding the right tee. It's a question that gets asked all too frequently on forums and reddit and for good reason. We all wear tees; we all want to look like Jeremy Allen White in said tees. Now you can buy the Merz B. Schwanen loopwheel tee that he wears in The Bear but the $95 made-in-Germany tee doesn't fit our bill or our biceps. So with that, here are 5 made in America tees that I've tried, I've liked, and why. 

Velva Sheen Pac Tee $$ (~$50)

One of the first MIUSA tees that I bought at a sample sale at Brooklyn Tailors before they closed up their retail shop in Brooklyn. I'm here looking at the handful of shirts that are well over 6 years old now, some with more wear than others, but all still holding up. The collars never bacon, they didn't seem to stretch or shrink all that much after countless cycles and the fit, though, a little odd, still looks good. It has that vintage tee vibe, tighter in the shoulder and sleeves with an overall short sleeve length.

Pros:

• Mid-to-heavyweight 100% cotton
• Great range of colors
• Collar and construction are top notch, even look better with wear
• Tubular knit, has the vintage white tee vibe down

Cons:

• Odd sizing, definitely need to size one up
• Sleeves are short so can look a bit off on some

 

 

Dehen 1920 Heavy Duty Tee $$$ (~$64)

Dehen makes high quality pieces, no question. I've always liked their Crissman Overshirt but never had a use for it, but their tees intrigued me. I like a tee with some weight, I like when they're made in the US, so it made sense to try it. I was hoping to find something similar to the Velva Sheen weight but maybe a better cut. It fits a little more true to size and feels a touch heavier than the VS. 

Pros:

• Nice heavy weight
• Standard fit (but nothing too special)
• Good color options
• Sturdy collar/build

Cons:

• 90% cotton, 10% poly
• Fit is nothing special, runs a lil long

 

Bayside Heavyweight Tee $ (~$16)

Easily one of the most known for both cost and quality. It's a mid-tier shirt for us, but they do have a union-made version. We've used it for screenprinting our own Made Index tees. This one makes all the lists because everyone wants a cheap tee, and they deliver just that. You have to buy them on a somewhat obscure site, but it works. The fit and quality though, nothing to rave about. It's skinny and tall but seems to be built alright. If you're looking to restock your staples, this is a popular one to start with without breaking the bank.

Pros:

• Cheapest MIUSA heavyweight tee by far
• Easily accessible for wholesale/screenprinting
• Union-made offerings

Cons:

• The fit is for the long and tall boys. No boxy, no nothing.
• Construction/quality is fine but not up to par with the others

 

Gnurh Tubular T $$$ (~$59)

Coming from a lesser-known in the tee world, Gnurh delivers a heavy dose of gorp but don't sleep on their tees. I was convinced to try one when I read about their unique construction: eliminating side, shoulder, and armhole sleeves. Don't ask how they do it. They come in a limited but satisfying array of colors and delivery on a harmonious weight-to-fit ratio. Wish I had dived in a bit earlier so I could have gotten the Moonscape color. 

Pros:

• Pretty unique construction method with a nice drape
• Best fit of the bunch for fans of the mega boxy world
• One of the few small makers in the tee game

Cons:

• YMMV but the seam on the back created by their construction method may be a dealbreaker for some

LA Apparel 1801 $ (~$24)

Yes, everyone knows about it, most of the cool bootleg boys use it. It's Bayside's slightly more expensive, but much better fit, cousin. The biggest issue is the owner of LA Apparel is notoriously not a good dude, so do with that what you will. But made in LA, at a sub-$25 price tag and available in every color imaginable, no wonder everyone has one. The collar is nice and high but tends to bacon ever so slightly after heavy use. Still, the shirt looks and feels good. Would be nice if more companies/bands used this over the Bayside, that's for sure.

Pros:

• The price, above all
• The fit is good too, it's a little longer than true boxy-boys, but it's well proportioned
• Every color under the sun

Cons:

• The owner
• The construction isn't as good as some of the others out there, namely in the collar

5 shirts that I own, 5 shirts that I wear, in no particular order. When one shirt goes, it's nice to try something new and see if there's a grail fit out there. There are a lot more brands to try, some I already have, and some I'm waiting on (looking at you Lady White Co.). So get out there, find the perfect MIUSA tee and maybe write a blog post about it.